Sunday, October 2, 2011

Volcanic Rock, ROCKs!!

For years, both here in Mexico and for decades in California, I have made Guacamole.  I have made, what I and others considered, a good guacamole.  Certainly it was homemade with fresh ingredients; a good starting point.  And, most certainly, it far exceeded the typical Mexican restaurant in California and even some in Mexico.  Still, it never reached the point at which I considered excellent----a melding of flavors that I had found only in some very good restaurants in the US and many here.  Now, thanks to the goddess, also known as Diana Kennedy, I have the key---albeit a heavy stone one---to perfect guacamole.
Guacamole is, of course, that blending of avocados, onions, chiles, cilantro, tomatoes, and a dash of salt that is shuttled to the mouth by means of a tortilla chip (called "totopos" here).  It comes from the Nahuatl (the language people spoke here before they were "discovered.") word for avocado sauce.  And, like most "moles" or sauces, before there were blender, and Cuisinarts, there were grinding bowls call Molcajetes.  A Molcajete is a mortar made from volcanic rock.  It is used with a pestle, called a Tejolote (or "mano") also made from the same substance.  Both are hard and heavy.  The Molcajete is carved out of the gray or black volcanic rock in the shape of a bowl on a solid tripod.  The Tejolote is shaped like a round-bottomed cone or a cylinder rounded on both sides.  To test a Molcajete, before buying, the goddess suggests pouring a little water into it to see if it drains out too quickly; also, using the Tejolote to grind a bit in the bowl of the Molcajete, then checking for excessive dust/particles (a little dust before curing is not bad).  Either too much drainage or dust is a sign that the Molcajete will not serve you well.
Once you have you Molcajete, it must be cured before using it.  The tradition is to take a handful of rice and grind it in the Molacjete, until it is powdered.  Dump the powder, rinse and dry the bowl and repeat this until the rice is more white than gray.  When I cured my Molcajete, it took 4 grinding; and then I did another.
And now the bowl is ready for making the perfect guacamole:

2 Medium Avocados, pitted and halved.
1 Medium Tomato
1 Small Onion
1 1/2 Serrano Chiles (seeds or seedless, depending on your heat tolerance)
Some Cilantro Leaves
Some Salt
2 Cloves of Garlic (optional, but the way I like it)
1/2 a Lime (again, optional, but it adds complexity)

Roughly chop half the Onion, the Serrano Chiles, half the Cilantro, and the Garlic and place it in the Bowl of the Molcajete; add a dash of Salt .  Then grind the ingredients to a paste (and this is where the magic happens, this is the key, this paste whose flavors are distributed throughout).
Add the Avocados, a half at a time, and grind them into the paste.
Chop the Tomato into fine chunks.  Add half to the mixture, squeeze the lime over it and folding it in.  Taste and add more Salt, if necessary.
Chop the rest of the Onion and Cilantro and mix it with the rest of the Tomato and sprinkle it over the Guacamole.
Serve immediately (No, really, myths aside---like the pit will keep guacamole fresh for a long time---it's at it's very best when made and served.  Buen Provecho!!
One of the YouTube Videos (See the Rest Of Our YouTubes, here), which I posted, yesterday, features the molcajete.  Look for others, here; this along with recipes, both Mexican and Mexican-fushion cuisine.

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